Nicosia today. The person who rented us the house in Kalavassos reckoned it was 25 minutes to Nicosia. Even in the Impreza it was closer to 50, especially when you factor in the inevitable city-centre traffic.
First port of call on arrival was The Cyprus Museum. We don't usually do indoor stuff, especially when the weather is nice and today was a 27 degree scorcher, but wife was desperate to see Severius Septimus. Born in Libya, this Roman emperor died in York and life-sized ancient statue of him resides in The Cyprus Museum.
Well, as fate would have it we weren't able to see old Severius as his room was being redecorated and all the exhibits were covered up! It wasn't a wasted journey though as many of the other exhibits more than made up for it. My favourites were the terracotta warriors (why are the Chinese ones so famous and these ones unheard of?) and some very whimsical pottery figures. Whimsical but ahead of their time, incredibly detailed they could be mistaken for items produced much later. While we were struggling to accurately draw cows and horses in the middle ages, the cypriots were making wholly realistic figures several thousand years ago! The pottery too was simply amazing.
Leaving the museum we headed straight for "the dark side" (Turkish North Nicosia). It's really nice over there and for anyone who's been to (for instance) Marmaris or Bodrum on holiday and been sick to death of people trying to drag you (sometimes quite literally) into their shop or cafe, let me just say this is NOTHING like that. In the entire time we were there (and on our last visit too) not one person attempted to tempt us into their emporium.
We visited the Great Inn first because we know we like the cafe there and wanted lunch. We had "cheese pies" (more like giant cheese-filled ravioli, but in a kind of "crepe" pastry rather than pasta, and "buttered layers" (the same kind of pastry built into layers with butter, cinnamon and (maybe) honey inside). Delicious.
While we were dining the call to prayer went out. All but two of the group of 8 men on an adjoining table, along with many others in the Great Inn, left in a hurry. 20 minutes later they were all back, back at the tables with fresh coffees ordered. This was good - we knew that if we left for the great mosque now we'd be able to see it without running the risk of overlapping with prayer time (when we wouldn't be allowed in).
The mosque is converted from a former cathedral, still recognisable as such from outside despite the addition of minarets. Inside it's much plainer than the cathedral would probably have been, decorated only in white with the odd motif or inscription here and there. I overheard a fellow visitor comparing it unfavourably to York and Durham saying it had "had its guts ripped out". This presumes that she knew it was once decorative, but I don't think its plainness was any bad thing - it was an oasis of calm and tranquility.
Leaving the mosque we wandered the side and back streets, searching out more mosques, old houses, cafes and shops. It was a very enjoyable stroll.
Back in the south side again we passed some time in a quiet square away from the main shopping hubub of Ledra Street, really just killing time until we were ready for a late, late lunch (at about 4pm, so maybe it was an early, early dinner). It was a bad choice of venue mind, as it had a vast array of the most wonderful cakes and pies and I was sorely tempted. But resisted.
So lunch/dinner brings us to Fanous, our favourite Lebanese restaurant anywhere. Each time we go it seems bigger and bigger and this time it has annexed the other side of the street where a mock Bedouin tent forms a sort of Internet cafe. We were forced to eat in there due to the fact it was packed to the rafters elsewhere (a good sign). We ordered dinner - Tabouleh, hummous, an aubergine, onion & tomato dish (omg how good it was) and felafel. Now we've had their felafel every time we've been and never thought anything untoward. Today though... it just seemed like they were chicken nuggets! Texture, taste and most especially smell - everything said chicken. I asked - "no, is not chicken, is chick pea".
We were not convinced and wife couldn't eat them. I had two, choosing to believe what i was told rather than what my senses were telling me. There was nothing else on the menu that it could have been, they must just work magic on the chick peas! Well, everything else was as delicious as ever and also as cheap. It was amusing watching some of the blokes there sucking on their hookahs. They sucked like there was no tomorrow, in through the mouth, out through the nose, barely pausing for a real breath and certainly not letting the fact that they were on the phone put them off!
So that was that - a 50 minute drive back "home" and we were packing cases, ready to fly back home tomorrow. Is it really time to come home??
Sent from my iPod.
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